Hey team, will he be ready the hairstyle guide soon? Readers get impatient!
I swear, you can’t imagine how many times I’ve heard this phrase in Nicolò’s mouth in recent weeks…
If you have been following BonneGueule for more than 48 hours, you must know Nicolò, our great community manager. From evening to morning and from morning to evening, only two things occupy his mind: the well-being of the BonneGueule community… and his hair!
To tell you, he spends almost as much time answering your questions as (re) styling …
It is not for nothing that Horace devoted an entire article to the hair routine of our favorite community manager …
Inevitably, he awaited this guide with undisguised impatience, both to satisfy your many requests and to perfect his hair skills.
As you know, the hair is not at the heart of usual concerns at BonneGueule. We help men to feel good in their clothes, but not really to look after their mane…
Since the world of hairdressing is not quite our core business, we therefore relied on the expertise of a professional to write this guide.
A challenge remained: to find THE most competent hairdresser possible, who would distill his knowledge with pedagogy.
Remembering an old French proverb 1, I turned to the Artley salon and more particularly Christophe Adric, its artistic director.
The latter kindly agreed to answer my questions, and I thank him warmly. As you read, I will share these with you at the most appropriate times.
“I consider myself more as an artist than as a craftsman. “Said the expert to whom I asked my questions.
CHRISTOPHE ADRIC, HAIR EXPERT
Hi Christophe. Can you introduce yourself to BonneGueule readers?
” Hello ! I am artistic director at Artley and image coach for actors, models and public figures.
After multiple professional experiences and many trips around the world, I came to Paris, “City of Light”, where hairdressing very naturally presented itself to me as a passion.
From then on, I no longer had to search, everything was there: know-how and know-how. I have had the privilege of working for twenty years for the biggest haircare brands around the world, and teaching my passion to hairdressers and show intermittents in my Hairdressing Academy.
(Photo credits: Christophe Adric)
I also provided training for the collaborators of the L’ORÉAL France – Clichy research laboratory. I have worked regularly for UNESCO as part of the “Women in Science” program.
Passionate about art and photography, I always work according to an art of living: cultivating the supreme of sophistication, that is, making it simple and doing it right.
Side 2 clothes, I have a rock style (and the attitude that goes with it), but not in forced mode. Everything is in the subtlety in order to remain consistent with yourself. “
(Photo credits: Christophe Adric)
What does your daily work consist of?
Quite simply: develop the Artley 3 concept and motivate my expert staff with all my energy and passion.
It’s also about meeting people, revealing a story through their haircut … The most important thing for me is to create, whether through my work in the salon or in fashion.
What are the differences between a hairdresser and a hairstylist? Are these notions complementary or inseparable?
The hairdresser makes a cut, while the hairstylist seeks to adjust his creation to each face. One cannot really go without the other.
What is a good hairdresser? A good make-up artist?
In my opinion, a good hairdresser can listen and watch carefully. He advises well and displays a high level of professional expertise.
Conversely, I don’t think there is a “good make-up artist” per se. Make-up artists don’t adhere to strict rules and you have to know how to go against the main principles if necessary. Indeed, a defect can be an interesting trait to exploit in order to create character.
Does make-up take into account only the face or style in general?
For me, hairstyle is an integral part of the general style! If your hairdresser passes you the robe without looking at you before, beware …
(RE) KNOW YOUR TYPE OF HAIR
Not all men are equal in terms of their hair characteristics: it is often a mix between genetic heritage and lifestyle (hygiene, diet, etc.). – Christophe Adric
For men, the hair universe is full of mysteries. If these gentlemen often take care of their skin, their line and their appearance, they tend to neglect the hygiene of their hair, for lack of knowledge in the matter.
For this reason, I believe it is essential to start at the beginning and review the BA.
I will avoid the far-fetched explanations; we will review the fundamentals to start on a good basis.
Just as one must know the nature of one’s skin to treat it, one cannot properly maintain one’s hair without mastering its type.
Understanding your mane is essential to pamper it properly and prevent problems 4.
LITTLE LESSON OF ANATOMY
First of all, we must agree on one point: the hair is a hair like any other!
Longitudinal (left) and cross section (right) of a human hair.
Like a flower, it is made up of three parts, only one of which is visible on the surface:
the stem: this is the emerged part of the hair. It’s the one you can style and sculpt on your head. This stem contains a protein, keratin, which results from the accumulation of dead cells that harden 5. Despite its finesse, the stem has 3 layers including the cuticle 6, the cortex 7 and the marrow 8.
The sebaceous gland, which is seen above the bulb, produces sebum. It is an essential substance because it greases the hair shaft and gives it resistance to external aggressions (pollution, sun, rain, etc.). Too much or too little, however, the sebum can be harmful to the scalp and its tenants … but we’ll see that later.
the bulb (or hair follicle): it represents the envelope of the root and lodges in the dermis. It is within it that new cells are born, pushing the older ones upwards. The older cells die and then make up the stem. Yes, you hear right: the visible part of our hair is biologically dead …
the root: it lives in the heart of the bulb. It is the living part of the hair: it is nourished by the blood capillaries to allow growth.
An (almost) clear summary.
Concretely, the blood vessels water the root in nutrients, which allow the hair to make this famous keratin and grow properly.
Depending on their location on the scalp, they grow differently: forward at the forehead, rather backward at the neck, and stiffly on the skull.
Few people whose head resembles a sea urchin and this, precisely, thanks to this specific implantation. In the vast majority of cases, the hair naturally follows the curvature of your skull.
It is by following this process that the 130,000 hairs (on average) that populate our noodles were born. Even if we naturally lose around fifty each day, there is still enough left to test ever more incredible hairstyles … provided we know which group we belong to.
These groups are divided according to several more or less relevant classifications. There are several dozen depending on the country and organization, but I have chosen to present two of them because they are very complementary and rather consistent.
CLASSIFICATION BY NATURE OF SCALP
This is a fairly classic and very traditional classification, which often goes hand in hand with the skin type. We therefore distinguish, without suspense:
dry hair: the sebaceous gland, which we were talking about earlier, does not produce enough sebum in this case. Also, the scalp is not sufficiently hydrated and the hair is dry, brittle and relatively coarse. They are fragile and quite difficult to untangle / style.
Even if it’s hard to see it in the image, dry hair looks dull and lacks shine.
normal hair: everything is fine in this case. The sebaceous gland has worked well, “and it shows on the outside” as the other would say. Suddenly, the hair has a beautiful appearance, it is rich, strong and quite shiny (without being oozing). It is then easy to discipline them as you please.
Normal hair appears perennial. We feel that we could pass our hand through it without resistance, or bring it out oily.
oily hair: you can imagine, this is an excess of sebum … Results? Heavy, oily hair that can be quite unpleasant in appearance.
Accentuated by a (good) dose of gel, the oily hair effect is manifested by an unnatural shine and a rather unsightly “bundle of wicks” effect.
CLASSIFICATION OF ANDRÉ WALKER
This is a classification less known in France, although it is more so on the other side of the Atlantic. And for good reason, André Walker is none other than the stylist of Oprah Winfrey, queen of US TV. 9.
Here are the two together and, to say the least, hair is in the spotlight!
In 1999, the latter wrote a book 10 in which he introduced a revolutionary classification which immediately created buzz among our American friends.
If it is primarily intended for women, this guide can just as well be understood as masculine since the hair has no gender.
According to André Walker, two parameters must be taken into account to categorize his hair: texture and thickness.
the texture is noted on 4: 1 = stiff, 2 = wavy, 3 = curly, 4 = frizzy.
the thickness is noted on an increasing scale from A to C.
To determine your hair type, observe it in its most natural state possible. Wash them and wait for them to dry without applying any product to them.
By combining these two criteria, we thus obtain 12 possible combinations: 1A; 1B; 1 C ; 2A; 2B; 2C; 3A; 3B; 3C; 4A; 4B; 4C.
It sounds complicated said like that but you will see that once illustrated, it is very clear. Take a look!
First we have the range of straight hair, from the thinnest on the left to the thickest on the right.
Same logic here with our comrades with wavy hair.
You got the idea: 3A left, 3B center, 3C right.
Same fight on the side of frizzy hair…
Obviously, the actors’ hair changes from one film to another (or even from one scene to another) so don’t be offended if you have already seen Matthew McConaughey with straight hair or Morgan Freeman with long straight hair …
This is a fairly incomplete comparison, the only claim of which is to illustrate the model theorized by André Walker, so that you have a clearer and more faithful idea.
I also point out that there are other classifications (FIA, LOIS, MIZANI …) that you can consult on the net. Nevertheless, I believe that of A. Walker’s is by far the clearest, simplest and most effective. Your turn to judge…
“Ok Lucas, I’m 1A, 2B or 4C. And now, what do I do ? “. Well, you go to the next paragraph. Quite simply !
WHY IS IT IMPORTANT TO KNOW YOUR TYPE OF HAIR?
Knowing your hair type may seem anecdotal, but it is a must.
Would you imagine applying creams at random on your skin, without having previously determined whether it is rather dry or rather oily? Of course not … and the reasoning should be the same for your hair.
Determining your “hair identity”, by crossing the two previous classifications, will allow you to choose effectively:
the care to adopt for your hair: depending on your type, it will be necessary to deal differently with the products and other masks to remove excess sebum or make them soft and shiny.
: depending on your type, it will be necessary to compose differently with the products and other masks to eliminate excess sebum or to make them soft and radiant. the most suitable shampoos and conditioners for your mane: never bet on the classic 5 in 1 hair and body soap… it saves you 5 minutes but does you more harm than good in the long term.
to your mane: never bet on the classic 5-in-1 soap for hair and body… it saves you 5 minutes but does you more harm than good in the long term. the most consistent care for your scalp: it is essential to nourish it, to rid it of impurities and to relax it.
For example, our colleague Maurice Style offers various products for straight and fine hair like his in his grooming section.
To illustrate my remarks, I will give you an example that I know quite well: mine!
At first, I have normal hair 11. As for that of André Walker, I am rather on a 1C 12, that is to say straight and thick hair.
Knowing that, I opt for a classic and neutral shampoo, without volumizing effect so as not to thicken my hair further, and I do not apply sebum-regulating products.
I also do not put conditioner since its use is intended to repair dry and damaged hair or lack of volume.
In addition, my hairdresser applies a scrub and a scalp mask every three to four weeks, which eliminates dead skin, promotes blood circulation and … relax!
TAKING CARE OF YOUR HAIR
As we have just seen, knowing your hair type is essential to take care of it. But concretely, how do we do on a daily basis? That’s what I’m explaining right away …
If you read carefully, you can surely have as beautiful a mane as Florian. You know what you have to do …
We know that those with thick hair would want them fine, that the curly would not be, that the blond would like to be brown and vice versa … In short, can we fight against the nature of his hair?
Yes and no. It all depends on the priority and the effort (time and money) that we want to provide. In the cinema: anything is possible! In everyday life, it is not always that simple. The question would be: should we fight against its nature or make it an asset?
In terms of clothing, a good wardrobe is based on good basics. What about the “ideal toiletry bag”? What are the essential products to take care of your hair?
Like a locker room, each kit should be different. However, there are a few invariants including: a good shampoo, a TIGI flat brush, a 3-row boar bristle brush, a comb, salt water spray, flexible non-greasy modeling paste, a dryer, a pocket mirror (for the profile and the back) and possibly a mini mower…
A Shu Uemura styling wax, a comb, an Ocean Mist from Sachajuan and a TIGI flat brush… enough to start the ideal toiletry bag according to Christophe.
The Internet is full of “grandmother tips” to take care of your hair and give it volume, shine, softness … Avocados, eggs, honey, clay, everything goes. What do you think ?
It’s like looking for a solution to treat yourself on the Internet: it’s very risky. It is essential to check the origin of the text, the credibility of this person and see if it really suits you. The diagnosis is very important, it is 50% of success.
HOW TO WASH THEM?
Again, I asked Christophe for his (enlightened) opinion …
We hear everything and its opposite about how often and how to wash your hair. Can you close this debate and tell us when we shampoo?
It is like the body, the scalp must be clean so as not to suffocate the pores of the skin. We should wash our hair at least every other day in big cities because pollution and odors are largely captured in our hair and skin.
We should not wash or strip the hair but just gently clean, to leave the natural lipid film that protects us.
Now that we have a general idea of the frequency, we must know how to wash the “tifs”! Ideally, rely on cold water. That said, I’m like you: taking a cold shower every morning (especially in winter) does not particularly delight me…
If you do not opt for freezing water, make sure not to subject your hair to a hot bath and prefer as much as possible a warm temperature so as not to attack it.
Then you have to go to shampooing. Here, feel free to massage your scalp with small circular movements. You thus link the useful with the pleasant since in addition to being pleasant, this technique improves blood circulation and cleanses your skull thoroughly.
Generally, your hairdresser performs this cranial massage before styling, which promotes blood circulation in addition to relaxing you. At Artley, the setting is all the more soothing. (Photo credits: Topsy One)
Rinsing is the next step, and it’s not the least important. Indeed, it allows to evacuate dead skin from massage as well as “debris” accumulated during the night and / or the day.
What shampoos for what types of hair? I suggest some ideas…
Do you have dry hair? You can go for these Redken shampoos, or any other nourishing product (often based on shea butter or olive oil).
You can go for these Redken shampoos, or any other nourishing product (often based on shea butter or olive oil). Do you have normal hair? A neutral shampoo will do the trick.
A neutral shampoo will do the trick. If you have oily hair, I recommend the shampoo enriched with nutrients from Baxter, embellished with amino acids and keratin. Here, the idea is to limit the production of sebum because it is this over-secretion which gives a fairly oily “oily” effect to the hair. It is therefore advisable to purify the scalp, which agents such as mint or nettle allow.
, I recommend the shampoo enriched with nutrients from Baxter, embellished with amino acids and keratin. Here, the idea is to limit the production of sebum because it is this over-secretion which gives a fairly oily “oily” effect to the hair. It is therefore advisable to purify the scalp, which agents such as mint or nettle allow. Very (too?) Fine hair? There are also volumizing shampoos to reduce this phenomenon, like the honey range from Leonor Greyl.
There are also volumizing shampoos to reduce this phenomenon, like the honey range from Leonor Greyl. TIGI, AVEDA and ARTLEY also offer quality natural products, without sulfates or dyes.
HOW TO FEED THEM?
Washing your hair is good, but nourishing it is even better. Once or twice a month, allow yourself a small hair mask, beneficial for both your scalp and your hair … and your morale.
As I said above, the hair is on the front line and victims of many attacks over the days. Scorching heat, driving rain, various and varied styling products, pollution … so many parameters that can affect their appearance.
So feeding them is extremely important to revitalize them and make them look better.
You can for example turn to:
a Sachajuan conditioner to make your hair stronger and more shiny (in the good sense of the word),
a repairing mask from the same brand, to restore vigor and vitality,
ultra-nourishing products, based on jojoba oil or safflower for example. It’s almost mandatory to hydrate frizzy hair, which is often very dry,
a scrub, mask and / or scalp massage when you go to the hairdresser. If you have oily hair, request an absorbent mask (often clay-based). Conversely, prefer a nourishing mask if your hair is rather dry.
How to take care of your hair?
If you scrupulously follow the steps we have just seen, you will not normally need to take care of your hair since it will be in perfect health. However, if your routine has not yet been worked out or, for one reason or another 13, your mane is not at its best, then it should be treated.
Dandruff, impromptu discolouration … all these defects are not necessarily fatal or irreversible. Preventing these risks is essential and most often quite simple: rigorous and regular care must be adopted and, if necessary, treated specifically.
Considered the top of the range of L’Oréal, Redken offers a very wide range of products for all hair types. Despite the intimidating prices, some can nevertheless be a relevant alternative.
To eradicate dandruff, Sachajuan offers a “Professional haircare” shampoo that also acts on redness and itching, just like Aveda with a deeper anti-dandruff treatment.
If your hair has trouble growing or if it looks weak, Sachajuan is still there for you with its “Hair control treatment” which promotes growth while strengthening it.
Lighter, TIGI repairing shampoos and conditioners allow damaged hair to be “put on its feet”.
HOW TO EAT?
No, there is no typo. What we eat can influence our hair.
” We are what we eat. “Says Christophe.
You’ve probably noticed that you often have oily skin when you eat a ketchup-mayo double meat kebab or a Maxi Best-Of menu. Logically, the scalp reacts more or less in the same way …
Hair, no more than your beach body, therefore does not like tacos or pizzas. Conversely, vegetables and other sources of vitamins B / C will be your best allies for strong and shiny hair.
Foods rich in zinc 14 and iron 15 are also essential.
Why ? Simply because keratin 16 needs these elements to fully assume its role.
Like what, it’s not just alcohol that hurts hair …
MISTAKES NOT TO BE COMMITTED
Even if you strictly follow the previous recommendations, some trivial details can undermine your thoroughness and deteriorate your hair. I give you a small, fairly exhaustive list of the most common mistakes to avoid as much as possible:
do not wash your hair more than is necessary: it is useless or even dangerous to shampoo yourself every day. Indeed, too frequent washing can be counterproductive and dry the hair or, on the contrary, promote the greasing of the scalp. For normal hair, two shampoos per week are more than enough. If you have dry hair, one to two weekly washes can represent a consistent rhythm, accompanied by special care. Oily hair needs more frequent care and requires a daily shampoo to reduce over-production of sebum.
Depending on your hair type, you will need to wash your hair at different frequencies. Photo credits: Reader’s Digest.
Small additional clarification: for frizzy hair, naturally dry, opt for a wash every 2/3 days, coupled with moisturizing and nourishing masks and / or conditioners.
take care of the hair dryer: it is more practical than a towel, faster than manual drying, rather pleasant in winter … but it is not a technique to adopt. In fact, the heat emanating from this tool 17 attacks the scalp, which produces sebum to defend itself. Oily hair insured, therefore, not to mention potential burns. If you are a fan of this weapon, keep it away from your skull and keep the temperature as low as possible.
: it is more practical than a towel, faster than manual drying, rather pleasant in winter … but it is not a technique to adopt. In fact, the heat emanating from this tool 17 attacks the scalp, which produces sebum to defend itself. Oily hair insured, therefore, not to mention potential burns. If you are a fan of this weapon, keep it away from your skull and keep the temperature as low as possible. stay reasonable with styling products: the gel suffocates the hair and clogs the pores of the skin of the skull, which is harmful to your scalp. A dab of mat wax should be enough to shape your cut: settle for … or change the product.
Spoiler: 30 grams of gel will not allow you to rob a bank. As long as to do, therefore prefer a natural wax.
do not go to bed with stuck hair: if you do not take a shower before bed, do at least a few brush / comb strokes to ventilate your hair.
: If you do not take a shower before bed, do at least a few brush / comb strokes to ventilate your hair. watch out for headgear: you must let your mane dry! So, try not to abuse caps, bobs and other hats so as not to impede the oxygenation of your scalp or your blood circulation.
In small doses…
run away from dyes: I know, browns would like to be blond and vice versa, but Mother Nature is stronger than our stylistic ambitions. So, compose a hair genre related to the nature of your hair … and in accordance with their color. The dyes contain chemicals that are devastating to your hair and, believe me, it’s not worth the effort.
With Luca, we wanted to try gray coloring lately, but our hairdressers strongly advised against it. Christophe explained to me why: “To make a gray, you have to remove all the natural pigments to obtain a platinum before making a lasting color, which degrades the hair. Concretely, it is a bit like if you wanted to tan skin from white to chocolate in one day: it is possible but very dangerous. “
So, we abandoned the idea and we are content with our brown and thick mop … Italian style.
Admit that the result could have been nice, like at Lucky Blue Smith.
IMPROVE YOUR STYLE… HAIR
You have recognized your type of hair, you are unbeatable in the care you need to provide, and you now have a beautiful and silky mane in good health … but have we done the trick?
Obviously not, the question remains how to improve what our English-speaking friends call the “hairstyle”.
THE RIGHT QUESTIONS TO ASK YOURSELF
Before choosing this or that hairstyle, you need to ask yourself a series of simple questions that will help you determine which one best suits you:
How much time are you ready to devote to your daily cut? Whether you are the type to put two combs out of the shower or prefer to arrange your hair in detail for 20 minutes, this is a parameter to take into account before choosing your hairstyle.
Whether you are the type to put two combs out of the shower or prefer to arrange your hair in detail for 20 minutes, this is a parameter to take into account before choosing your hairstyle. How often do you want to go to the hairdresser? Whether you love getting shampooed or scissoring is a real worry, you need to adapt your hair to reflect this.
Whether you love getting shampooed or scissoring is a real worry, you need to adapt your hair to reflect this. What budget are you ready to commit for your “haircut”? Equipment, masks, dyes, pruning, scissors or clippers, massages … all cuts are not equal and do not require the same maintenance: so many things to consider depending on your wallet.
A whole routine…
Which hairstyle is best suited to match your dress style?
Finally (and above all), which hair style do you like?
By answering these questions, you will have a relatively faithful overview of the hairstyle to adopt, consistent with your tastes and means.
The second step, probably the most complicated, is to know if the hairstyle of your dreams can match the shape of your face.
CHOOSE YOUR HAIR
Choosing your clothes can be tricky, but adopting a hairstyle is a different story. Depending on your hair type, you are not entirely free to choose one or the other.